These Pictures May Give You Nightmares About The Canada Oil Sands

Canada's economic boom depends on tearing up 54,000 square-mile of pristine Alberta wilderness.

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Development of the world's third largest oil supply is proceeding rapidly. It already represents a $3.5 billion annual paycheck to the Canadian government and 75,000 immediate jobs.

But many are aghast at the project, which is also the fastest growing source of greenhouse gas in Canada.

Oil Sands
Robert Johnson — Business Insider

When you see the pictures, you may feel the same. We're not saying the project is good or bad. We're just saying the scale and severity of what's happening in Alberta will make your spine tingle.

Business Insider sent me to Alberta in early May, when there was still ice on the ground and a bite in the air. I took these shots, trying to stay warm, from about 1,000 feet up, out of the window of a small plane.

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The following pictures show oil mining, where the sand is dug from the ground and the oil's separated through a lengthy and messy process. There are drilling sites in the oil sands, and those are highlighted in the photo essay at the end of this one.

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To get a look at the oil sand mines, we rented this Cessna 172 which the pilot was allowed to bring down to 1,000 feet — from there, through the open window and with a long lens we were able to see what really goes on in one of the most controversial places on the planet

Alberta Oil Sands Fort McMurray
Robert Johnson — Business Insider

The Alberta oil sands are spread across more than 54,000 square miles but we're taking a look at just a small part of that — the red line is an approximate outline of the entire deposit — the green is where we'll be flying

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But thousands flock here to make real money in the oil sands — where creating synthetic crude begins in the strip mine

Alberta Oil Sands Fort McMurray
Robert Johnson — Business Insider

This is how the oil sands have been harvested since 1967

Alberta Oil Sands Fort McMurray
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There were only two companies working the sands in 1998 and local officials were concerned even those would be forced to close — there are more than 10 times that number here now

Alberta Oil Sands Fort McMurray
Robert Johnson — Business Insider

That's because in the late '90s oil prices rose, the Canadian government restructured its royalty system, and new technology caused a huge boom

Alberta Oil Sands Fort McMurray
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From small companies to conglomerates like Shell — each outfit starts off the same way

Alberta Oil Sands Fort McMurray
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First they clear the trees from the land

Alberta Oil Sands Fort McMurray
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Then they scrape away the shallow layer of leafy, peaty topsoil called muskeg

Alberta Oil Sands Fort McMurray
Robert Johnson — Business Insider

Then the trucks and shovels come in to scoop up the oil sand — that shovel is electric, runs on 15,000 volts — and scoops up 90 tons in one load — it takes about 2.5 tons of sand to produce one barrel of oil

Alberta Oil Sands Fort McMurray
Robert Johnson — Business Insider
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The Cat 797 dump trucks are the largest in the world and and can haul 1 million pounds in a single load — more weight than a fully loaded Boeing 747

Alberta Oil Sands Fort McMurray
Robert Johnson — Business Insider

They're so large people say they can drive over a Ford F-150 like it's a 'speed bump' — with this shot from outside a mechanic's shop it's easy to see what they mean

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And the dump trucks are everywhere out here

Alberta Oil Sands Fort McMurray
Robert Johnson — Business Insider

Carrying the chunks of oil sand

Alberta Oil Sands Fort McMurray
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Often across bridges like these, which are supposed to be the strongest in the world

Alberta Oil Sands Fort McMurray
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To crushing plants like this, which break up the chunks into a fine mixture that can be transported along the conveyor belts below

Alberta Oil Sands Fort McMurray
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The conveyors take the sand to be conditioned — the first step in separating it from the oil

Alberta Oil Sands Fort McMurray
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Conditioning is just mixing the oil sand with water — creating what's called a slurry — where the oil begins to part from the sand

Oil Sands Mine
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The slurry is then piped to containers where it separates into three parts: Oil froth on top — sand on the bottom — oil, sand, clay, and water in the middle

Oil Sands Mine
Robert Johnson — Business Insider

The sand and water mixture in the middle is pumped to open storage areas called tailings ponds

Alberta Oil Sands Fort McMurray
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The ponds are vast and some look more like lakes

Alberta Oil Sands Fort McMurray
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Most ponds are coated in a sheen of oil that can be deadly to waterfowl, like ducks and geese, that land on its surface

Alberta Oil Sands Fort McMurray
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To help keep birds away scarecrows like this are all over the ponds

Oil Sands
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The ponds are used to settle out the solids in the oil-water mix as they slowly fall to the bottom — the chemicals and oil float to the top

Alberta Oil Sands Fort McMurray
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The surface chemicals are skimmed across the surface using floating lines like those used in oil spills

Alberta Oil Sands Fort McMurray
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To give an idea of the size — that dump truck passing the pond is 50-feet-long

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This is what one pond looks like on the ground

Oil Sands
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And this is what the surface material looks like up close

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After it's skimmed and the surface water is relatively sediment and chemical free — it's pumped from one pond to another

Alberta Oil Sands Fort McMurray
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This clarified water is supposed to provide 90 percent of what the oil companies need to start all over again

Alberta Oil Sands Fort McMurray
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The solids left behind will be used to reclaim the land as the operation moves on

Alberta Oil Sands Fort McMurray
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As the sand finally dries it turns white — sound cannons still boom to scare birds away though — especially after a 2010 incident where hundreds of ducks landed on a roadside pond and died

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Oil companies are required to return the land to its original condition and this reclaimed section, populated with Wood Bison, is not far from the pond

Alberta Oil Sands Fort McMurray
Robert Johnson — Business Insider

It looks a whole lot different on this side

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Once the rough oil is pulled from the sand it will get sent to an 'upgrader' like Suncor's here on the Athabasca River — this is one of the sites where the oil from the oil sands is converted into synthetic crude

Alberta Oil Sands Fort McMurray
Robert Johnson — Business Insider

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This is done by heating the raw oil, called bitumen, in a process called coking and produces the smoke that hovers about the whole area and a smell that fills the cockpit of the plane

Oil Sands Mine
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Here are some small piles of coke

Alberta Oil Sands Fort McMurray
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And here is one very immense pile of coke waiting to be used or sold as fuel for smelting iron

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After it's coked, the oil is 'cracked' to break the heavy parts down into lighter more desirable petroleum products

Alberta Oil Sands Fort McMurray
Robert Johnson — Business Insider

Cracked, coked and lighter, what's left gets sent to a tower like this, where inside it's hotter at the top than the bottom, forcing dense material down and lighter petroleum products up

Oil Sands Mine
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Then everything is exposed to hot, high pressure gas that removes even more impurities like sulfur

Oil Sands Mine
Robert Johnson — Business Insider

The sulfur would normally then be sold

Alberta Oil Sands Fort McMurray
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But a glut in the sulfur market is keeping prices low, and in the meantime mountains of it continue to grow

Alberta Oil Sands Fort McMurray
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Once the oil is "upgraded" it will go to a storage tank like this one currently under construction

Alberta Oil Sands Fort McMurray
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This is Syncrude's Mildred Lake plant along Route 63

Alberta Oil Sands Fort McMurray
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Route 63 is deadly, and a family of 7 was killed driving it the day I got there — this memorial is right across from Syncrude by the side of the road — after taking this photo Syncrude security was dispatched and told me to go

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Just north of that tribute sit these two machines some companies used in mining up until 2006 — a dragline on the left, and a gray bucketwheel to the right

Alberta Oil Sands Fort McMurray
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Spectacularly immense, this bucketwheel is the largest crawling machine in existence

Oil Sands Mine
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For scale, that fence post is about six-feet-tall

Oil Sands Mine
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These bucket teeth that dug into the sand were very effective, but when the bucketwheel broke down, mining stopped — so they were phased out in favor of the shovels and trucks

Oil Sands Mine
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There are fleets of trucks and if one breaks down another one simply takes its place, but at $5 to $6 million apiece they are not cheap

Alberta Oil Sands Fort McMurray
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And they go through tires pretty quickly —  the ones for the big dump trucks run about $45,000 apiece

Alberta Oil Sands Fort McMurray
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At 13-feet — and 12,000 pounds each — the 797 tires are a burden to dispose of and they're put to use wherever they can be

Oil Sands
Robert Johnson — Business Insider

To keep vehicles from getting bogged down in the mud, these wooden boards will often be put down

Oil Sands Mine
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But they're not always practical, so a nearby gravel mine pumps out stone to layer the roads

Alberta Oil Sands Fort McMurray
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The gravel mine produces its own uniquely colored pools of water

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But they don't compare to the deep orange of this oil sand pit we pass in the plane moments later

Alberta Oil Sands Fort McMurray
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The companies out here all have their own landfills

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Though city officials are building a state-of-the-art incinerator as part of their modernization effort

Alberta Oil Sands Fort McMurray
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Most oil workers live in housing like this and are bussed in to the compound from their homes and families in Fort McMurray

Alberta Oil Sands Fort McMurray
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There are no public gas stations up by the camps and sadly even this store was closed at noon on a Sunday

Oil Sands Mine
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Which may have been just as well because the bootie dispenser outside the door was empty

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The average dump truck driver makes about $55 an hour plus overtime working the mines and the average family income here is around $190,000

Oil Sands Mine
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That kind of money prompts many people to settle down and stay far longer than they planned — this is where the pilot lives with his parents — he asked for a photo

Alberta Oil Sands Fort McMurray
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And just as you would imagine, the people who live here are very concerned about pollution — this site was fined $275,000 for contaminating the Athabasca River just a year ago

Alberta Oil Sands Fort McMurray
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The provincial government tests the area waters constantly

Oil Sands Mine
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But the locals I talked to all said they'd like to see more transparency and updates on what exactly is being found and what they should watch out for

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The oil sands, with its up to 2 trillion barrels of oil sitting in the ground, is a complex place

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And despite how you may feel about the immense environmental impact the oil companies may have on the world

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You can be sure they're not going anywhere while there is still oil left to collect

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